Best place to eat: Ceviche Sankuay, Lima, Peru

The ceviche craze has gone global in recent years (it now graces the menu at London’s Nobu), but to really experience Peru’s national dish of raw fish cured in lime juice and hot pepper, you have to venture into the backstreets of Lima. The title of best cebecheria is hotly contested in the Peruvian capital. Javier Wong’s Sankuay undoubtedly has the greatest sense of theatre. There’s no sign outside, and the building in the anonymous Balconcillo district turns out to be the chef’s own home. There are only 10 tables, and no menu. Wong’s cebiche, made with lenguado (a type of sole) and accompanied by octopus discs rather than the usual choclo (white maize) and camote (sweet potato), is out of this world.
Garcia Leon 114 (between block 3 and 4 of Av Canada), Santa Catalina, La Victoria, Lima, Peru, 0011 51 1 470 6217

